Travel Notes from Pashupatinath, Nepal

I have very vivid memories of this place. For one, it’s my third time visiting and so every Nepal trip i have, i never fail to show up. I love Boudhanath, but Pashupatinath is a league of its own. 

After coming from Dhulikel and a side trip to Bode Thimi, i made my way back to Kathmandu to drop of my rucksacks, eat my Japanese Soba noodles which i purposely brought for moments like this — hungry but with no time to find a restaurant in Thamel. 

Pashupatinath has always been in my radar, i just don’t know when i’ll visit this particular trip. I even scheduled it on my first full day but somehow, i overslept and overstayed in my bedroom. And so i fixed my itinerary and postponed going here. I would want to visit Pashupatinath either early in the morning or late in the afternoon. The problem with the former is that it’s bitter cold during this time, and although Nepal is generally safe, somehow early morning isn’t the wisest idea. 

It didn’t take long for me to change my clothes and book an In Drive going there. Arriving in Tribhuvam and heading to Thamel, it will also not take long for you to see Pashupatinath. It’s on your right side. Although it has many entrances, make sure to pick one that is the longest so you can see more of the huge complex and build your excitement from there. 

As soon as i arrived in Pashupatinath, i have to be honest and say it didn’t feel so authentic. It’s like every single one of those who’re coming have already a preconceived notion of what they will expect. More like a theme park. No surprises, no discovery. Although i didn’t see much tourists not until you reach the bridge and the view of the holy river. It is a holy place and a sacred one for Hindus. Yet, it didn’t feel solemn or sacred to me this time around. By the way, when i arrived, people were already seated. Later on, the continuation of the festival of lights happens in Pashupatinath as well. That’s the reason why many pilgrims have congregated at dusk.

I don’t want to be a downer and say that one shouldn’t visit Pashupatinath. You should. I will even recommend to come visit it first. Or better yet, plan your visit during Maha Shivaratri because as far as i know, my memory of Pashupatinath will always be Maha Shivaratri where it becomes a place like no other. It’s like heaven and hell rolled into ones. It’s the beginning and also the end. It’s life and death.

The longer i stayed in Pashupatinath, the less the place becomes magical. I don’t blame the place because before, 10 years ago, it’s on my list of one of my most unforgettable places on earth. I blame the moment, and maybe the dodgy characters you will encounter now more than ever. Sadhus are uniquely Hindu and many people will argue of their honesty. A hundred rupees for a photo opportunity doesn’t seem too expensive most especially for the kind of life they let go. It’s only a hundred rupees for chrissake. And a lot of foreign tourists say avoid them at all cost. It’s the sacred cows and bulls parading and its pageantry. It’s the entrepreneurs now selling face mask, as inhaling smoke from a burning body is not only unhygienic but also borderline gruesome. 

There was a point during my visit that kids get weirded out by me and started talking to me. With a goal to be anonymous and camouflage myself from the crowd, i know that the moment i start speaking is the moment the bays start begging for money. So kept quiet and pretended to be deaf. 

As you see, this travel notes of Pashupatinath came in so late because i want to write about it but i also don’t want to write negative about it. Maybe, i’ve outgrown it. Maybe, my third visit is already enough. Who knows? 

I stayed for about two hours and watched as the mini festival began. I am blessed to be able to witness it — pilgrims clapping, the pageantry of fire and dance, and just the vibe of prayer and sorrow. I actually didn’t even bother to ask random people about it and what the hell was happening. I told myself, i’ll just research about it when i get to my room, with the hopes of finding out what really is going on. It went on and on. And on and on. I left the place, and made my way to a different exit. I don’t remember if it was the same exit as before during Maha Shivaratri, but this one road looked more residential. I actually didn’t know that there were even hotels and restaurants within the complex. 

I tried booking In Drive, but the traffic was super terrible that it’ll take the driver 30 minutes just to make a u-turn. Knowing the exact fare, i hailed a cab to go back to Thamel. I paid the same fare as my In Drive going there. 

Oh, and for the first time ever, i paid a ticket to go inside Pashupatinath. I am not upset about it. How can i? It just feels really weird. Like somebody telling me “I told you so!”