Travel Notes from Nagarkot, Nepal

I’ve been coming to Nepal more often than any usual tourist. Simply because there’s a lot more reason to visit this amazing country than Everest or as locals call - Sagarthama. There’s just too many regions, and places and locals, and always so little time. Yes, so little time. I spent almost 3 months in Nepal before but still there were so many places i have missed and decided will come for a visit next time. For a country not too big in size and a population not too many compared to the Philippines, Nepal is just jam-packed with many exciting adventures. You may have to draft your itinerary countless number of times before your trip because another place pops up and you want to visit it too.

Surprisingly, this very popular place called Nagarkot has escaped my to visit list before. I’ve read reviews how touristy the place is, and how the crowd can sometimes alter your peace during sunrise. But still, one may never know until you’ve personally been there. 

From Sankhu, it must have taken us forever. Forever doesn’t mean how long the trip took us but how we endured never ending sharp curves with killer cliffs. No pun intended. The driver and I cruised high altitude roads towards the town of Nagarkot. Obviously, the highway is called Nagarkot, too. Can you believe some travelers navigate the highway at night? They leave Kathmandu around 5 in the morning and reach Nagarkot after an hour just in time for sunrise and the start of the trek. Nagarkot is a very popular trekking destination, and sunrises and sunsets are one of the best ways to enjoy the place. You have sweeping views of the Himalayas from cool vantage points within Nagarkot. 

My driver was actually calm and very precise considering some parts of the Nagarkot Highway needs repair (as many Nepali Roads are), and the unmanned cliffs are a bit terrifying, to be honest. From Sankhu, we bypassed the main highway passing through a Hindu Temple called ??? True enough, most people who go to Nagarkot hire their own car and so a bus stop is simply a bus stop. To get from the bus stop to your hotel, you need to walk. It would be best to plan this ahead of time as you don’t want to navigate Nagarkot and its dusty highway on foot, day time or worse, at night.

Hotel Country Villa is just how i imagined it to be. With its unassuming entry, the experience begins as you enter and what view would be waiting for you. The hotel is pretty well-maintained. Perhaps one of the many reasons this hotel is very popular with foreign tourists and locals alike. The staff are professional, and so checking in and out was a breeze. I arrived on a Wednesday, and yet it’s not entirely devoid of crowd. People eat breakfast early, and leave right away. I don’t understand. Nagarkot is really very popular, and for one good reason - the view from high up the mountains. That is if you’re lucky. I am about 20% lucky because the peaks show up for a bit, but mostly it’s all clouds. 

After checkin in, i found time to nest and just prepare myself for mountain weather. I ordered another small pot of Masala in one of the many resting places in the hotel, and off i go just doing absolutely nothing. Well, sitting and relaxing. I thought i would be able to catch up on my reading, but i was wrong. I couldn’t take my eyes away from the view. I hoped for a better picture at sunset or sunrise. But like i always do from hereon, accept that things happen for a reason. I may not see the Himalayas clearly now, but soon i will be. I am manifesting.

I ordered Chicken sizzler with rice and it was just okay. Probably not the best Chicken dish i’ve had in Nepal. It seems Chicken is quite popular as even basic menus usually have it. It didn’t take long for me to finish the meal. I was stuffed. Later on, i enjoyed the rest of the sunset view from my balcony. Every now and then, i would go outside the and people watch see what’s happening. And then i would go back to reading my Lonely Planet Nepal guidebook again from my comfortable bed. I actually paid quite a premium for this accommodation, and it didn’t dissapoint. It’s also surprising that the room was warm. I don’t know if it’s because of its cabin feel with teak wooden floor and ceiling but it does its job to control the temperature. I actually had to take off my lounge socks because it was getting warm already. My suite in Kathmandu was colder but it’s because the room’s interior design is classic Newari.

Sadly, i barely slept and up until now i have no idea why. It must have been the elevation or too much Masala Tea, perhaps? In no time, i woke up to an alarm on my phone at 5AM, and sunrise doesn’t happen until 45 Minutes later. As early as that time, staff at the hotel are already setting up the place for breakfast buffet which starts at 6:30AM. It’s so cold outside yet they have to power through early morning because it’s work. They need to earn to survive.

I now need to talk about the working conditions of many NepalIs. I reckon those who work in the hospitality business as managers and even staff have it better compared to taxi drivers or construction workers who start work as early as 6AM and come back home at 10PM. It made me think how lucky i am staying at a “monggo” place, that’s expensive in Nepali, with a room so big an actually family can fit on it.

10 years ago, i didn’t have this realization. I was just exploring. Now, reality is more glaring than ever. Perhaps, i am starting to fully embrace the Nepali culture and traditions, and realizations like these would soon happen. It seems me being able to come back to Nepal three times already says so much about the privilege i have. The only thing i can offer to my Nepali brothers is a few minutes of amazement when i meet them. That i look Nepali but i am not. That i’m able to speak a phrase or two and my accent is perfect yet i am not. People are just so amazed. One person even told me maybe in my past life i was born Nepali, or that my mother or father was Nepali. 

Anyway, the mountains appeared for a bit around noon when everybody left already. Don’t believe guidebooks when they say that the best time to view the Himalayas is early morning or late afternoon. It changes. You’ll never know. If you stay longer, you’ll reap what you saw. 

I was glad to be able to visit Nagarkot and experience it for myself. Will i go back again? Probably not. Nepal is just too blessed. There’s countless number of view points around. Just do your research. Find one that you like, and treasure it. 

By the way, getting In Drive from Nagarkot to anywhere within the Kathmandu Valley is not easy but it’s possible. I had to offer a much higher rate when i booked for a driver just because i am time dependent. I don’t want to lose sunlight while on the road and not get the full potential of the mountains. Little did i know, i was in for a treat to a place i’ve visited 11 years ago. I will be staying in the very same resort. I just hope to see familiar faces. Dhanyabad!