Going to Khokana was indeed a spur of the moment decision. I just googled any place in Nepal near Patan that i haven’t been to. It doesn’t necessarily need to have a good view or a Hindu / Buddhist temple found in it, but just somewhere. Somewhere. I haven’t found a single place within the Kathmandu Valley that i hated anyway. Oh well, maybe Kopan Monastery. But going to Khokana was well worth it. It’s a few kilometers away from Patan, yet the road going there must have felt like eternity. It just keeps on going, and still don’t know when it will end. The In Drive driver wasn’t particularly keen on bringing me but i bargained for a few hundred rupees to bring me there, wait and bring me back to my hotel in Jyatha. The road going to Khokana felt like it was forgotten. It wasn’t bad because it seems like construction started but sadly it wasn’t finished so it was dusty through and through. There’s rocks and cement on the road side where kids walk from house to house. The route is so deceiving because as soon as you reached the bus park, the view appears and you just smile. Suddenly, you are reminded that Nepal has infinite wonders as you get pass the bad roads and air pollution. I didn’t even know this place existed within the Kathmandu Valley. 1 years ago, there were only a list ot places to see that some travelers have visited and a good tourist spot. Now, more places pop up the Lonely Planet reader’s radar. But this place, Khokana, I doubt tourists come here at all. 

As soon as i arrived, i saw groups of family picnicking. I saw lovers picnicking. I saw friends picnicking. Everyone’s so happy and merry. You know, “sound of music” can be playing in the background as i walk towards the main area - green grass with gobsmacking views. They’re all chatting and just jappy, occasionally taking a selfie. When you have a view like in Khokana, who wouldn’t? You have a great view of everything here — the Himalayas, the town proper below Patan, the mountain ranges, a sunset and perhaps a sunrise, too. If i could describe Nepal in one place, it would be Khokana. Nepal is all about physical beauty intertwined with a spiritual awakeness. There’s a little Hindu temple near a lone tree. And by the time i reached it, i saw somebody dancing. You couldn’t get more Nepali than that? Later on, i discovered that Khokana was one of the places within the Kathmandu Valley that crumbled to the ground because of the 2015 earthquake.

There were some parts within the park where the view of the Himalayas is a bit obstructed, and i reckon that’s one of the reasons why it’s relatively untouched or non-commercialized. Sadly, like many places in Nepal, trash is everywhere. If only the locals realize, how blessed they are to be at the foothills of one of the most beautiful signs on Planet Earth. 

After taking a hundred photos, i played with Google Maps a bit hoping there’s a place of interest somewhere near. I was glad to know there is one and it’s called One Tree Hill - yes like the American TV series. 

Where it’s found couldn’t get any more exciting. It’s on top of a hill within a village zig zaging on a one way lane up and down. You get the picture? There was a point where our car needed to stop for a bit to wait for a truck to finish it’s business because it’s a one lane road, and it’s hundred feet cliff on the left and houses on the right. There was no way. Getting on top was a surreal experience, and as a non-climber, was definitely the icing on my cake of a trip to Nepal. It was maybe around four in the afternoon, and the wind decided to crash my photo op. It was unbelievably scary because it felt like i was being blown by the wind. And i’m not necessarily thin. It was so windy, my ears were popping a bit, and my hair was all over the place. Imagine if there were no trees there. Good thing, my monopod was steady enough to capture photos and work its magic capturing the awesome view behind me. Most of the time, i was taking cover from the tree. That tree. The mountain ranges, the sun, the Himalayas, the town was well worth the crucial trek down from One Tree Hill. There was no path at all and it was impeccably steep. I had my lucky boots which i’ve used in Nepal in 2014 and 2015, and it still has no signs of giving up on me. So as a non-climber, i wouldn’t be shy to admit that in order for me to get down, simply sat and slid down. Dusting off all the tree branches, hardened soil and some trash, the mini struggle was finally over. 

If that’s not enough, there were probably around 6-8 random dogs surrounding me who were all barking crazily before i arrived but as soon i stepped out of the car, suddently they all turned a blind eye and just accompanied me right. It was surreal but also a bit crazy. Thank God for Techno, our family dog, and his smell lingering in me the whole time. I’never felt more safe. 

I told you from the start that my travel notes may not have a connection with Khokana or it may have. I believe Change, in particular, lead me there, to Khokana. Change of plans and change of itinerary, i believe. The universe is telling me something, and all i needed to do was simply listen. I’m always too stubborn not to listen. There are things in life we hoped for will continue, and there are things in life that would only last for a short time. 

I purposely asked the In Drive driver to drop me off a kilometer away from Patan. I remembered before how rewarding it was to start from here snaking your way to the durbar square. This is the best route one could take. One that is not shared in guidebooks because you just get dropped of the entrance and you skirt your way around which in hindsight doesn’t make any sense.

True enough, Patan feels more relaxed when not rushed. More people are outside minding their own business and not minding you at all. What a treat. There were heaps of sellers displaying their brassware, a hit among shoppers in Patan. I wished i could have visited Jawalakhel but i could go there next time so I’m not worried. Somehow, the air is also different here. It’s less polluted and dare i say, cleaner. It’s compact and that’s what i love the most about. You can walk from one end to the other in about an hour’s time and not sweat nor touted. 

I passed by the hotel where i stayed before in Patan. And the memories of a couple having sex in the early morning made me laugh. I found it very amusing. The location is very central, and although i could remember how the room was very small and maybe not earthquake proof, i wouldn’t mind staying there again just to keep memories alive. 

I don’t know if it’s fatigue or i’m just plain lazy but as soon as i arrived, all i want to do was sit and just people watch. And so i did just that for about an hour. Can you imagine? I still took photos of people, the temples, family, clouds, pigeons, etc. It’s still the same, except maybe of the ongoing construction to some places because of the earthquake. That’s how vast the effect of the earthquake was. It’s more than 10 years, and Patan has not fully healed from it. It has not 100% recovered from it.

It was a Saturday when i went. And in Nepal, this is Sunday from the western world. Sundays are like Mondays, everyone goes back to work or school. There were so many young kids doing the same thing as i was — sitting and people watching. Oh, they’re also chatting which i am obviously not doing. Reminder to learn Nepali. I have about until January next year to prepare myself for this. 

I promise to finally visit Jawalakhel next time and score a carpet. I love buying stuff for the home and there’s many trinkets of Nepal in my home now — Tibetan chest drawers, candle holders, incense sticks and brass holder, Hindu signages among others. I wouldn’t mind adding more.

Since the weather has been pretty good and the Himalayas are showing up a bit more now (although not as snowy), i made a detour somewhere near before going back to Kathmandu. And it’s probably one of the most beautiful places i’ve ever been to. 

I have very vivid memories of this place. For one, it’s my third time visiting and so every Nepal trip i have, i never fail to show up. I love Boudhanath, but Pashupatinath is a league of its own. 

After coming from Dhulikel and a side trip to Bode Thimi, i made my way back to Kathmandu to drop of my rucksacks, eat my Japanese Soba noodles which i purposely brought for moments like this — hungry but with no time to find a restaurant in Thamel. 

Pashupatinath has always been in my radar, i just don’t know when i’ll visit this particular trip. I even scheduled it on my first full day but somehow, i overslept and overstayed in my bedroom. And so i fixed my itinerary and postponed going here. I would want to visit Pashupatinath either early in the morning or late in the afternoon. The problem with the former is that it’s bitter cold during this time, and although Nepal is generally safe, somehow early morning isn’t the wisest idea. 

It didn’t take long for me to change my clothes and book an In Drive going there. Arriving in Tribhuvam and heading to Thamel, it will also not take long for you to see Pashupatinath. It’s on your right side. Although it has many entrances, make sure to pick one that is the longest so you can see more of the huge complex and build your excitement from there. 

As soon as i arrived in Pashupatinath, i have to be honest and say it didn’t feel so authentic. It’s like every single one of those who’re coming have already a preconceived notion of what they will expect. More like a theme park. No surprises, no discovery. Although i didn’t see much tourists not until you reach the bridge and the view of the holy river. It is a holy place and a sacred one for Hindus. Yet, it didn’t feel solemn or sacred to me this time around. By the way, when i arrived, people were already seated. Later on, the continuation of the festival of lights happens in Pashupatinath as well. That’s the reason why many pilgrims have congregated at dusk.

I don’t want to be a downer and say that one shouldn’t visit Pashupatinath. You should. I will even recommend to come visit it first. Or better yet, plan your visit during Maha Shivaratri because as far as i know, my memory of Pashupatinath will always be Maha Shivaratri where it becomes a place like no other. It’s like heaven and hell rolled into ones. It’s the beginning and also the end. It’s life and death.

The longer i stayed in Pashupatinath, the less the place becomes magical. I don’t blame the place because before, 10 years ago, it’s on my list of one of my most unforgettable places on earth. I blame the moment, and maybe the dodgy characters you will encounter now more than ever. Sadhus are uniquely Hindu and many people will argue of their honesty. A hundred rupees for a photo opportunity doesn’t seem too expensive most especially for the kind of life they let go. It’s only a hundred rupees for chrissake. And a lot of foreign tourists say avoid them at all cost. It’s the sacred cows and bulls parading and its pageantry. It’s the entrepreneurs now selling face mask, as inhaling smoke from a burning body is not only unhygienic but also borderline gruesome. 

There was a point during my visit that kids get weirded out by me and started talking to me. With a goal to be anonymous and camouflage myself from the crowd, i know that the moment i start speaking is the moment the bays start begging for money. So kept quiet and pretended to be deaf. 

As you see, this travel notes of Pashupatinath came in so late because i want to write about it but i also don’t want to write negative about it. Maybe, i’ve outgrown it. Maybe, my third visit is already enough. Who knows? 

I stayed for about two hours and watched as the mini festival began. I am blessed to be able to witness it — pilgrims clapping, the pageantry of fire and dance, and just the vibe of prayer and sorrow. I actually didn’t even bother to ask random people about it and what the hell was happening. I told myself, i’ll just research about it when i get to my room, with the hopes of finding out what really is going on. It went on and on. And on and on. I left the place, and made my way to a different exit. I don’t remember if it was the same exit as before during Maha Shivaratri, but this one road looked more residential. I actually didn’t know that there were even hotels and restaurants within the complex. 

I tried booking In Drive, but the traffic was super terrible that it’ll take the driver 30 minutes just to make a u-turn. Knowing the exact fare, i hailed a cab to go back to Thamel. I paid the same fare as my In Drive going there. 

Oh, and for the first time ever, i paid a ticket to go inside Pashupatinath. I am not upset about it. How can i? It just feels really weird. Like somebody telling me “I told you so!”

The drive from Dhulikel wasn’t too long as is the book to get an In Drive Driver. Nagarkot was a totally different case. In Dhulikel, it seems there are many more taxi drivers en route to and from Banepa Highway. After chatting for a bit and relaxing at the porch at Dhulikel Lodge Resort, it was time for me to move forward with my trip, and go back to the grounds. This means my trip to the mountains is finally over. On my way back to Kathmandu, i thought of stoppong by Bode. Initially, i thought Bode and Thimi are two different places. Little did i know, Bode is actually a part of Thimi in Bhaktapur. So the drive going there, we did pass by Bhaktapur and from there, it’s only about 4 kilometers away. 

As soon as you arrive in Bode, you will be greeted by a huge Kamal Pokhari which is a huge pond. During the season, this pond is filled with lotus flowers. When i arrived, it was barren and but still beaming at noon. You know the feeling when you arrive in an old Newari town in Nepal, that’s the feeling in Bode. At around 2PM, the elders congregate around the town overlooking the pond. I didn’t get too much stare from them considering i look like half of the people there. With a shame, i took out my monopod to take a selfie video. That’s when i got the look. I moved forward going down the steps that lead me to a quiet, unassuming Hindu Temple. It must have been the weekday or perhaps it’s still early in the afternoon, coming from Sankhu, the place is peaceful and calm. I sat for a bit, and prayed. I watched the day go by, as it had sweeping views of the town below. Still, there was nothing. Nothingness. 

Moving forward, i walked up west to the roundabout and saw old historical buildings. Like anywhere in Nepal, it’s all two storeys with colorful paints of aquamarine and salmon. Looking back at my first impression of Bandipur before, this is the same feeling. I felt like i was transported back in time. Surely, there were more old people than young. I haven’t seen a hotel. One which i would fancy staying at next time. Afternoons are well spent chatting with a neighbor, cleaning the household and just relaxing. 

I would have wanted to stay a bit longer not because there were so many more places to visit but because i would have wanted to sit with the lovely chaps, and just people watch, daydream and look back how fortunate i was to be able to visit Bode. I then realize, maybe it’s not just about the mountains of Nepal that make it unique, maybe it’s something else. Something no one else can see but probably feel. , my Newari driver, was so weirded out when i opened the car and got inside. He was staring at me the whole time. Finally, i broke the ice and started talking. He kept on looking at his rear view mirror. That was our story.

The drive from Dhulikel wasn’t too long as is the book to get an In Drive Driver. Nagarkot was a totally different case. In Dhulikel, it seems there are many more taxi drivers en route to and from Banepa Highway. After chatting for a bit and relaxing at the porch at Dhulikel Lodge Resort, it was time for me to move forward with my trip, and go back to the grounds. This means my trip to the mountains is finally over. On my way back to Kathmandu, i thought of stoppong by Bode. Initially, i thought Bode and Thimi are two different places. Little did i know, Bode is actually a part of Thimi in Bhaktapur. So the drive going there, we did pass by Bhaktapur and from there, it’s only about 4 kilometers away. 

As soon as you arrive in Bode, you will be greeted by a huge Kamal Pokhari which is a huge pond. During the season, this pond is filled with lotus flowers. When i arrived, it was barren and but still beaming at noon. You know the feeling when you arrive in an old Newari town in Nepal, that’s the feeling in Bode. At around 2PM, the elders congregate around the town overlooking the pond. I didn’t get too much stare from them considering i look like half of the people there. With a shame, i took out my monopod to take a selfie video. That’s when i got the look. I moved forward going down the steps that lead me to a quiet, unassuming Hindu Temple. It must have been the weekday or perhaps it’s still early in the afternoon, coming from Sankhu, the place is peaceful and calm. I sat for a bit, and prayed. I watched the day go by, as it had sweeping views of the town below. Still, there was nothing. Nothingness. 

Moving forward, i walked up west to the roundabout and saw old historical buildings. Like anywhere in Nepal, it’s all two storeys with colorful paints of aquamarine and salmon. Looking back at my first impression of Bandipur before, this is the same feeling. I felt like i was transported back in time. Surely, there were more old people than young. I haven’t seen a hotel. One which i would fancy staying at next time. Afternoons are well spent chatting with a neighbor, cleaning the household and just relaxing. 

I would have wanted to stay a bit longer not because there were so many more places to visit but because i would have wanted to sit with the lovely chaps, and just people watch, daydream and look back how fortunate i was to be able to visit Bode. I then realize, maybe it’s not just about the mountains of Nepal that make it unique, maybe it’s something else. Something no one else can see but probably feel. 

6 kilometers feels like forever as we cruised from the dusty and way back in time, Dhulikel. The road is narrow and long but once it came to a fork, the road became steeper and unpaved. Wait for a few minutes, and you’ll begin to realize for yourself what a great decision it was for you to head to Namobuddha. Back in 2014 and 2015, this place was’t even written in guidebooks. Now, it has become another attraction nearby Dhulikel. Determined to make up for the failed Kopan Monastery trip days ago, i wanted to push through going to a Buddhist Monastery high on top of the mountains. As soon as we reached the halfway mark, we stopped by for a photo opportunity near a giant tree with sublime views.

Nabraj who was my driver from Nagarkot has become a permanent fixture for my mountain trips. Before the trip to Namobudda happened, i bargained for a cheaper price considering it says only 6-8 Kilometers as per Google Maps. Now that i think about it, i could have paid him twice his asking price. The trip was long, arduous and requires a lot of special driving skills to maneuver its impenetrable highways, or lack of road thereof.

Namobuddha is a huge complex with classrooms, monastery and stupa on top. It’s actually the fourth most important Buddhist Monastery - Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, in the whole country, Nepal. I am quite happy i pursued the trip because it actually gave me an idea for a next outing. What’s particularly interesting is that there’s an affordable hotel found on top of the monastery. All with sweeping views of the Himalayas and expansive town below. 

From my many trips across the Kathmandu Valley, Namobuddha has one of the best viewing points there is. The journey going there is also something to look forward to as to the fact there weren’t a lot of tourists there in sight. But word of caution, i don’t think it’s wise to hit the road at night, so plan your stay ahead. 

Not too far from Namobuddha is another stupa, equally as beautiful. The atmosphere is just breathtaking with locals lighting up butter candles, monks chanting and with glorious sunset views to boot also. I had a very good feeling about the place - where it felt like it’s almost forgotten, under appreciated yet life changing. Sadly, no hotels anywhere, and not even a homestay. 

My trip going there wasn’t long, and the trip took me less than 3 hours from start to finish yet Namobuddha became an instant favorite as Kakani was before to me. It must have been the outstanding views from the monastery above, or serene and calmness of the air, or just that i feel safe and tucked in the great presence of Buddha. 

One sharp left leads to a sign “Dhulikel Lodge Resort” so big, it’s borderline cheesy. The place looked the same but the entrance so different. I remember walking towards the lodge resort with my big backpack. Yes, i was a proud backpacker before. My back couldn’t handle it anymore.

There are new rooms being developed, and i am actually staying in a new one found in a new wing. The room may be comfortably big but the view was a little disappointing. The newer rooms are found on the far right of the resort where extensive branches of tree are still undeveloped and a sloping hill covers much of the plains and the mountains views which is a bummer.

I actually wanted to change rooms after checking in but i paid a hefty price for the junior suite. As mentioned before, travel currency nowadays is size of the rooms. It seems these hotels are meant not to be left. I actually did my research and particularly booked higher priced rooms in Nepal because i wanted this trip to be as comfortably luxurious as possible. The locations of these hotels like Hotel Country Villa in Nagarkot and Dhulikel Lodge Resort in Dhulikel is very prime. You don’t have to trek to get a view point at all. Just go outside the balcony of your room and watch the sunrise or sunset, or both. Dhulikel was colder for me and more windy as compared to Nagarkot the previous day. Sadly, i wasn’t able to fully enjoy the balcony seating area because it’s just too damn cold outside. For sunrise, i decided to simply open the window glass door and enjoy the view from inside the room. A huge couch was transformed as an observation seating area for me. It didn’t take too long before the clouds finally roll up, and there’s no view anymore. Small wins! As days pass by, the views of Himalayas are getting better. See, manifesting works. The sunset from the garden area was simply spectacular - actually my most favorite in the whole compound.

During breakfast, i finally saw familiar faces. It’s so nice catching up, and telling them how amazing Nepal is that i had to come back and how fast time flies from 2014 to 2025. They’re so fascinated that i visited again and spent a night again in Dhulikel. The photo i took of us before was such a conversation starter. They begged me to send it to them so they can share with many of their friends. I have a strong feeling, i will be back in Dhulikel. I’ll revisit this travel notes again. But i would like to stay longer, and use Dhulikel as my base. 

In one of my many conversations with a random shop seller, he told me how travelers have changed nowadays. More people now have less commitment to actually stay in one place and immerse in local culture. They just come and go, and visit as many places as they can. Although guidebooks are essential tool, one still needs to research and caution themselves. A lot can happen on the road. Sometimes, the best destinations aren’t the ones that are worth remembering. True that. 

I wanted to visit the old town of Dhulikel again, but there are some more places that i haven’t been to in my itinerary. I needed to get going. I was chatting with the manager about life in Nepal and the Philippines. I whatsapped our photos from then and now, and how amazing it is to be back. I actually came back to Dhulikel. Not a lot of people can claim that. It was like a homecoming of some sort. 

When i was drafting my itinerary, Dhulikel initially wasn’t on the list. I wanted to stay longer in Kathmandu and just do day trips towards the eastern valley and the rim from there. I did this before and found it very convenient. But winter in the mountains is an experience that’ll be worth my while. 

Climate change has directly affected Nepal. Gone are days of January winter In Nepal where you need have layers upon layers of clothing. Now, i was actually comfortable with shortsleeved shirts during daytime. The sun was scorching, and 20 degrees during Winter is unheard of. And then it plummets late afternoon and becomes single digit at night.

Dhulikel during sunrise was bitterly cold. And for the first time during the trip, i had to cover my whole face. I had to use heat pack to keep my hands warm amidst my three layer clothing. All is good in the mountains of Nepal.

I’ve been coming to Nepal more often than any usual tourist. Simply because there’s a lot more reason to visit this amazing country than Everest or as locals call - Sagarthama. There’s just too many regions, and places and locals, and always so little time. Yes, so little time. I spent almost 3 months in Nepal before but still there were so many places i have missed and decided will come for a visit next time. For a country not too big in size and a population not too many compared to the Philippines, Nepal is just jam-packed with many exciting adventures. You may have to draft your itinerary countless number of times before your trip because another place pops up and you want to visit it too.

Surprisingly, this very popular place called Nagarkot has escaped my to visit list before. I’ve read reviews how touristy the place is, and how the crowd can sometimes alter your peace during sunrise. But still, one may never know until you’ve personally been there. 

From Sankhu, it must have taken us forever. Forever doesn’t mean how long the trip took us but how we endured never ending sharp curves with killer cliffs. No pun intended. The driver and I cruised high altitude roads towards the town of Nagarkot. Obviously, the highway is called Nagarkot, too. Can you believe some travelers navigate the highway at night? They leave Kathmandu around 5 in the morning and reach Nagarkot after an hour just in time for sunrise and the start of the trek. Nagarkot is a very popular trekking destination, and sunrises and sunsets are one of the best ways to enjoy the place. You have sweeping views of the Himalayas from cool vantage points within Nagarkot. 

My driver was actually calm and very precise considering some parts of the Nagarkot Highway needs repair (as many Nepali Roads are), and the unmanned cliffs are a bit terrifying, to be honest. From Sankhu, we bypassed the main highway passing through a Hindu Temple called ??? True enough, most people who go to Nagarkot hire their own car and so a bus stop is simply a bus stop. To get from the bus stop to your hotel, you need to walk. It would be best to plan this ahead of time as you don’t want to navigate Nagarkot and its dusty highway on foot, day time or worse, at night.

Hotel Country Villa is just how i imagined it to be. With its unassuming entry, the experience begins as you enter and what view would be waiting for you. The hotel is pretty well-maintained. Perhaps one of the many reasons this hotel is very popular with foreign tourists and locals alike. The staff are professional, and so checking in and out was a breeze. I arrived on a Wednesday, and yet it’s not entirely devoid of crowd. People eat breakfast early, and leave right away. I don’t understand. Nagarkot is really very popular, and for one good reason - the view from high up the mountains. That is if you’re lucky. I am about 20% lucky because the peaks show up for a bit, but mostly it’s all clouds. 

After checkin in, i found time to nest and just prepare myself for mountain weather. I ordered another small pot of Masala in one of the many resting places in the hotel, and off i go just doing absolutely nothing. Well, sitting and relaxing. I thought i would be able to catch up on my reading, but i was wrong. I couldn’t take my eyes away from the view. I hoped for a better picture at sunset or sunrise. But like i always do from hereon, accept that things happen for a reason. I may not see the Himalayas clearly now, but soon i will be. I am manifesting.

I ordered Chicken sizzler with rice and it was just okay. Probably not the best Chicken dish i’ve had in Nepal. It seems Chicken is quite popular as even basic menus usually have it. It didn’t take long for me to finish the meal. I was stuffed. Later on, i enjoyed the rest of the sunset view from my balcony. Every now and then, i would go outside the and people watch see what’s happening. And then i would go back to reading my Lonely Planet Nepal guidebook again from my comfortable bed. I actually paid quite a premium for this accommodation, and it didn’t dissapoint. It’s also surprising that the room was warm. I don’t know if it’s because of its cabin feel with teak wooden floor and ceiling but it does its job to control the temperature. I actually had to take off my lounge socks because it was getting warm already. My suite in Kathmandu was colder but it’s because the room’s interior design is classic Newari.

Sadly, i barely slept and up until now i have no idea why. It must have been the elevation or too much Masala Tea, perhaps? In no time, i woke up to an alarm on my phone at 5AM, and sunrise doesn’t happen until 45 Minutes later. As early as that time, staff at the hotel are already setting up the place for breakfast buffet which starts at 6:30AM. It’s so cold outside yet they have to power through early morning because it’s work. They need to earn to survive.

I now need to talk about the working conditions of many NepalIs. I reckon those who work in the hospitality business as managers and even staff have it better compared to taxi drivers or construction workers who start work as early as 6AM and come back home at 10PM. It made me think how lucky i am staying at a “monggo” place, that’s expensive in Nepali, with a room so big an actually family can fit on it.

10 years ago, i didn’t have this realization. I was just exploring. Now, reality is more glaring than ever. Perhaps, i am starting to fully embrace the Nepali culture and traditions, and realizations like these would soon happen. It seems me being able to come back to Nepal three times already says so much about the privilege i have. The only thing i can offer to my Nepali brothers is a few minutes of amazement when i meet them. That i look Nepali but i am not. That i’m able to speak a phrase or two and my accent is perfect yet i am not. People are just so amazed. One person even told me maybe in my past life i was born Nepali, or that my mother or father was Nepali. 

Anyway, the mountains appeared for a bit around noon when everybody left already. Don’t believe guidebooks when they say that the best time to view the Himalayas is early morning or late afternoon. It changes. You’ll never know. If you stay longer, you’ll reap what you saw. 

I was glad to be able to visit Nagarkot and experience it for myself. Will i go back again? Probably not. Nepal is just too blessed. There’s countless number of view points around. Just do your research. Find one that you like, and treasure it. 

By the way, getting In Drive from Nagarkot to anywhere within the Kathmandu Valley is not easy but it’s possible. I had to offer a much higher rate when i booked for a driver just because i am time dependent. I don’t want to lose sunlight while on the road and not get the full potential of the mountains. Little did i know, i was in for a treat to a place i’ve visited 11 years ago. I will be staying in the very same resort. I just hope to see familiar faces. Dhanyabad! 

Back in the days, there was no In Drive to book a driver. You just hail a taxi cab in one of the many busy streets of Thamel and pray that you get a nice driver. Well, everyone’s nice here in Nepal. Never had a problem. Now, going from point A to B has become painless. Last time, i was going over my draft itinerary trying to figure out where i will go today. I am sleeping overnight in the mountains outside of Kathmandu, and Sankhu is on the way. I might as well pay a visit. 

I’ve been reading my past blog entries and Sankhu has been mentioned countless number of times. It’s one of the most highly recommended places to go to in the Kathmandu Valley, and yet i haven’t been there. What the heck. Reading my travel notes, i reckon it’s either i missed the bus going there or i am losing sunlight to go back to Kathmandu that’s why i always forego the trip there. This time around, i surely made time.

Raj Baruwal was my driver for the day. He will take me to Sankhu first. If the taxi cab i rode before was bad, today was worse. The white Maruti Suzuki i rode today should retire. It’s that bad. My driver didn’t speak any English, but was very polite, timid and shy. He’s quite aggressive as a driver, and very eager to tour me around. I was actually surprised later on because i thought he would just drive - not realizing he’s willing to guide me all day.

The route took me to Boudhanath Road again, where it’s traffic and polluted. But once you’ve passed by the area, the trip becomes faster and the mountain ranges appear from the horizon. You’ll feel as if everything’s already moving fast. I am still trying to study the route the driver took to Sankhu because all in all, it took us about an hour to reach the place. We surely were in for a treat. 

There must be a festival of some sort because throngs upon throngs of people come and go to the Vajra Yogini Temple. Later on, i found out that it’s the Madhav Narayan Festival. The driver told me he would come with me which again is a nice gesture. With too many people going in, this chap helped me in the maze going to the temple. I took about a thousand photos because festivals in Nepal are a different league. If you can, time your visit during one. You won’t be disappointed. Later on, i realized that all throughout this particular trip, there’s always a festival wherever i am going.

Even for a non-Hindu, this visit has become a meaningful, albeit unforgettable. Coming from the Philippines, and even for Asia, a Hindu festival is always mind blowing. One thing i enjoyed during the trip was observing life as it happens. Walk around, look around. There were many people bathing in the holy river, lighting butter candles, worshipping the Hindu gods, asking for blessings from Sadhus. The infinite sound of drums and bells, the chatters and clapping still ring in my ear as i type this. 

As i look back, it must be the right timing for me to visit Sankhu. Reading about it the other night, i thought it’s a sleepy and quiet town. Well, after today, it was the exact opposite. Today reminds me of Diwali which i was lucky to experience in Varanasi in India back in 2011, only today was daytime. I realized there are really so many Hindu festivals, and the interest is growing on me. More festivals to visit soon, perhaps. 

Upon further research, i discovered that in India celebrating the same festival, and about 30 people died during a stampede. Truly a heartbreaking news. At Sankhu, heaps of people gathered and for a bit, i got worried that there might be too many people around. But once you see the police manning the place, it’ll keep you calm.

Back to Raj Baruwal who takes the worse photos. Sorry dude! But when i take his photos, it’s always perfect. Now that i think about it, maybe it’s a sign for me to stop taking selfies or asking some to take my photos. Instead, i should just take photos of places and people. This has more meaning. You don’t always have to be the center of attention of your world. It’s not always about you. You see, you get lessons from anywhere and everywhere, if you only look with eyes wide open.

He made a sign, holding his pinky finger which means he wants to go to the toilet. I never heard of that. Earlier, he didn’t even drink water when i offered to buy him one. Today, i am in a limbo. I don’t know which made a more lasting impression to me — Sankhu and the Madhav Narayan Festival or my driver / guide - Raj Baruwal.

In In Drive, you can check how many kilometers the ride was, and it’s 103.5 Kilometers in total. Wow! It seems paying 4,785 Nepalese Rupees for the ride to Sankhu and my final destination for the day was such a bargain.

It must have been my 10th time visiting the durbar square and yet it always feels so magical, so out of this world. It seems like there is an invisible energy that draws you in. You feel amazed and blessed at the same time. You know what’s even more recommended, you come at night when there’s no more tourists. Locals go to have puja stops, merchants waiting for a bit to close shop and lovers chatting in the cold January weather in the steps of the temples. What a vibe! Next time you visit the Durbar Square, do so at night and you’ll be rewarded with an experience like no other. For example, the Kal Bhairav is flocked by Hindus worshipping and you get to really see up close and personal how one Hindu worships and go on with their lives after a prayer. Be discreet, and they won’t mind you.

I’ve seen vloggers (you call them now as i am still a blogger) and do their first impression of Nepal and they immediately go to Kathmandu Durbar Square, and yet they don’t get to fully immerse themselves because they have many stops to go for the day. The beauty of Nepal is you have to visit the place in different times of the day, and in different days. I went on a Tuesday night and yet it feels like the weekend or a holiday.  I cannot say the same thing for the day but i will in a few days. Let’s see. I have been to the three durbar squares before and Patan has always been my favorite, followed by Kathmandu and sadly, i have to put Bhaktapur the last. I find it too chaotic for me, and there’s very little light at night which makes the trip there not as comfortable or secure as i hope it would be. Although one rooftop restaurant there serves the best chicken fried rice ever. I will edit this with the name. 

I was actually thinking where else to go after Boudhanath. It was either Pashupatinath or Kathmandu Durbar Square. I chose the latter because i want to visit the cremation ghats on another day, sunrise or sunset perhaps. 

I am eating my breakfast now at the courtyard of Swarga Heritage Hotel and i could’t finish anymore my French Toast with my small pot Masala Tea. 

I also love that i am writing everything here on Blogger so i won’t forget my successes and mishaps on the road. Imagine, i started blogging again because of Nepal after 10 years. And i want to continue doing so. All for the love of Nepal! 

Next stop, another place i haven’t been to before. I hope everything pans out great because transportation seems to be a problem for me, or lack thereof.

Last time i went to Bhouda, i actually stayed overnight at Comfort Guesthouse so i can watch the stupa from dusk till dawn. It’s one of the highlights of my three month expedition to Nepal back in 2015. This time around, i may not have the same luxury of time but what i do have now is a much more calm mind and purposeful drive. You see, what’s particularly nice about Bhoudanath is that any religion is welcome here. And as a Christian “trying” to practice Buddhism, i feel a surge of energy, like Lord Buddha guiding me as his son. As i move clockwise around the stupa, and focusing on my intent as i say the mantra while spinning the wheels (which i discovered before to have actual scriptures written on it).

Buddhism is a very interesting religion because it’s very simple to follow. So simple that my favorite thing to say is that my religion is very simple. My religion is kindness. You don’t need to complicate things in order to be a good person. Whatever you do comes back to you ten-fold.

I went up the stairs that lead up to the Himalayan View Restaurant and started reading my book. All this while i was eye to eye with the Bhouda. It didn’t take long for my chicken fried rice to arrive, and me to finish it in less than 10 minutes. The staring contest was truly unforgettable. If you’re reading this, the views from this restaurant and the outdoor seating are the best. Price is very cheap considering you have premium seats. Go there.

I continued on walking clockwise while i was praying. This happened maybe 3 more times before my feet start to hurt. During my last interval, i went inside the corners of the stupa and found myself passing by Buddhist pilgrims praying. Without a doubt, sunset is the best time to visit Boudhanath. While everyone is rushing going here at noon as part of the UNESCO heritage sites tour, one misses this epic moment — when the energy from day to night is full on and the chants become louder, worshippers more tantric. It’s an out of this world experience. I have a 49 second video with me for keeps. Whenever i feel like my life is on a limbo, i’ll just watch it and keep calm. Then, i know how to move forward.