Travel Notes from Bode, Thimi, Nepal


Gyanendra, my Newari driver, was so weirded out when i opened the car and got inside. He was staring at me the whole time. Finally, i broke the ice and started talking. He kept on looking at his rear view mirror. That was our story.

The drive from Dhulikel wasn’t too long as is the book to get an In Drive Driver. Nagarkot was a totally different case. In Dhulikel, it seems there are many more taxi drivers en route to and from Banepa Highway. After chatting for a bit and relaxing at the porch at Dhulikel Lodge Resort, it was time for me to move forward with my trip, and go back to the grounds. This means my trip to the mountains is finally over. On my way back to Kathmandu, i thought of stoppong by Bode. Initially, i thought Bode and Thimi are two different places. Little did i know, Bode is actually a part of Thimi in Bhaktapur. So the drive going there, we did pass by Bhaktapur and from there, it’s only about 4 kilometers away. 

As soon as you arrive in Bode, you will be greeted by a huge Kamal Pokhari which is a huge pond. During the season, this pond is filled with lotus flowers. When i arrived, it was barren and but still beaming at noon. You know the feeling when you arrive in an old Newari town in Nepal, that’s the feeling in Bode. At around 2PM, the elders congregate around the town overlooking the pond. I didn’t get too much stare from them considering i look like half of the people there. With a shame, i took out my monopod to take a selfie video. That’s when i got the look. I moved forward going down the steps that lead me to a quiet, unassuming Hindu Temple. It must have been the weekday or perhaps it’s still early in the afternoon, coming from Sankhu, the place is peaceful and calm. I sat for a bit, and prayed. I watched the day go by, as it had sweeping views of the town below. Still, there was nothing. Nothingness. 

Moving forward, i walked up west to the roundabout and saw old historical buildings. Like anywhere in Nepal, it’s all two storeys with colorful paints of aquamarine and salmon. Looking back at my first impression of Bandipur before, this is the same feeling. I felt like i was transported back in time. Surely, there were more old people than young. I haven’t seen a hotel. One which i would fancy staying at next time. Afternoons are well spent chatting with a neighbor, cleaning the household and just relaxing. 

would have wanted to stay a bit longer not because there were so many more places to visit but because i would have wanted to sit with the lovely chaps, and just people watch, daydream and look back how fortunate i was to be able to visit Bode. I then realize, maybe it’s not just about the mountains of Nepal that make it unique, maybe it’s something else. Something no one else can see but probably feel. , my Newari driver, was so weirded out when i opened the car and got inside. He was staring at me the whole time. Finally, i broke the ice and started talking. He kept on looking at his rear view mirror. That was our story.

The drive from Dhulikel wasn’t too long as is the book to get an In Drive Driver. Nagarkot was a totally different case. In Dhulikel, it seems there are many more taxi drivers en route to and from Banepa Highway. After chatting for a bit and relaxing at the porch at Dhulikel Lodge Resort, it was time for me to move forward with my trip, and go back to the grounds. This means my trip to the mountains is finally over. On my way back to Kathmandu, i thought of stoppong by Bode. Initially, i thought Bode and Thimi are two different places. Little did i know, Bode is actually a part of Thimi in Bhaktapur. So the drive going there, we did pass by Bhaktapur and from there, it’s only about 4 kilometers away. 

As soon as you arrive in Bode, you will be greeted by a huge Kamal Pokhari which is a huge pond. During the season, this pond is filled with lotus flowers. When i arrived, it was barren and but still beaming at noon. You know the feeling when you arrive in an old Newari town in Nepal, that’s the feeling in Bode. At around 2PM, the elders congregate around the town overlooking the pond. I didn’t get too much stare from them considering i look like half of the people there. With a shame, i took out my monopod to take a selfie video. That’s when i got the look. I moved forward going down the steps that lead me to a quiet, unassuming Hindu Temple. It must have been the weekday or perhaps it’s still early in the afternoon, coming from Sankhu, the place is peaceful and calm. I sat for a bit, and prayed. I watched the day go by, as it had sweeping views of the town below. Still, there was nothing. Nothingness. 

Moving forward, i walked up west to the roundabout and saw old historical buildings. Like anywhere in Nepal, it’s all two storeys with colorful paints of aquamarine and salmon. Looking back at my first impression of Bandipur before, this is the same feeling. I felt like i was transported back in time. Surely, there were more old people than young. I haven’t seen a hotel. One which i would fancy staying at next time. Afternoons are well spent chatting with a neighbor, cleaning the household and just relaxing. 

would have wanted to stay a bit longer not because there were so many more places to visit but because i would have wanted to sit with the lovely chaps, and just people watch, daydream and look back how fortunate i was to be able to visit Bode. I then realize, maybe it’s not just about the mountains of Nepal that make it unique, maybe it’s something else. Something no one else can see but probably feel. 


Travel Notes from Namobuddha, Nepal

6 kilometers feels like forever as we cruised from the dusty and way back in time, Dhulikel. The road is narrow and long but once it came to a fork, the road became steeper and unpaved. Wait for a few minutes, and you’ll begin to realize for yourself what a great decision it was for you to head to Namobuddha. Back in 2014 and 2015, this place was’t even written in guidebooks. Now, it has become another attraction nearby Dhulikel. Determined to make up for the failed Kopan Monastery trip days ago, i wanted to push through going to a Buddhist Monastery high on top of the mountains. As soon as we reached the halfway mark, we stopped by for a photo opportunity near a giant tree with sublime views.

Nabraj who was my driver from Nagarkot has become a permanent fixture for my mountain trips. Before the trip to Namobudda happened, i bargained for a cheaper price considering it says only 6-8 Kilometers as per Google Maps. Now that i think about it, i could have paid him twice his asking price. The trip was long, arduous and requires a lot of special driving skills to maneuver its impenetrable highways, or lack of road thereof.

Namobuddha is a huge complex with classrooms, monastery and stupa on top. It’s actually the fourth most important Buddhist Monastery - Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, in the whole country, Nepal. I am quite happy i pursued the trip because it actually gave me an idea for a next outing. What’s particularly interesting is that there’s an affordable hotel found on top of the monastery. All with sweeping views of the Himalayas and expansive town below. 

From my many trips across the Kathmandu Valley, Namobuddha has one of the best viewing points there is. The journey going there is also something to look forward to as to the fact there weren’t a lot of tourists there in sight. But word of caution, i don’t think it’s wise to hit the road at night, so plan your stay ahead. 

Not too far from Namobuddha is another stupa, equally as beautiful. The atmosphere is just breathtaking with locals lighting up butter candles, monks chanting and with glorious sunset views to boot also. I had a very good feeling about the place - where it felt like it’s almost forgotten, under appreciated yet life changing. Sadly, no hotels anywhere, and not even a homestay. 

My trip going there wasn’t long, and the trip took me less than 3 hours from start to finish yet Namobuddha became an instant favorite as Kakani was before to me. It must have been the outstanding views from the monastery above, or serene and calmness of the air, or just that i feel safe and tucked in the great presence of Buddha. 


Travel Notes from Dhulikel, Nepal

Same old, same old. Back in 2014, and during my first visit to Nepal, Dhulikel was the destination i chose over Nagarkot. I wanted to experience staying overnight in a mountain retreat outside Kathmandu. The words “less touristy” immediately won me over. 11 years later, it’s still the same hilltop place i know. Still no tourists in sight, and still has some of the worst road conditions you’ll ever encounter within the Kathmandu Valley. The main thoroughfare of Banepa is hot, dusty and chaotic. You need to roll the windows up when bypassing the road. It’s also not recommended to stay there at all unless you’re caught somewhere in the middle of nowhere. But what it lacks in physical beauty, it makes up for its importance if you want to get from Kathmandu to other destinations in the valley rim. You have no choice. 

One sharp left leads to a sign “Dhulikel Lodge Resort” so big, it’s borderline cheesy. The place looked the same but the entrance so different. I remember walking towards the lodge resort with my big backpack. Yes, i was a proud backpacker before. My back couldn’t handle it anymore.

There are new rooms being developed, and i am actually staying in a new one found in a new wing. The room may be comfortably big but the view was a little disappointing. The newer rooms are found on the far right of the resort where extensive branches of tree are still undeveloped and a sloping hill covers much of the plains and the mountains views which is a bummer.

I actually wanted to change rooms after checking in but i paid a hefty price for the junior suite. As mentioned before, travel currency nowadays is size of the rooms. It seems these hotels are meant not to be left. I actually did my research and particularly booked higher priced rooms in Nepal because i wanted this trip to be as comfortably luxurious as possible. The locations of these hotels like Hotel Country Villa in Nagarkot and Dhulikel Lodge Resort in Dhulikel is very prime. You don’t have to trek to get a view point at all. Just go outside the balcony of your room and watch the sunrise or sunset, or both. Dhulikel was colder for me and more windy as compared to Nagarkot the previous day. Sadly, i wasn’t able to fully enjoy the balcony seating area because it’s just too damn cold outside. For sunrise, i decided to simply open the window glass door and enjoy the view from inside the room. A huge couch was transformed as an observation seating area for me. It didn’t take too long before the clouds finally roll up, and there’s no view anymore. Small wins! As days pass by, the views of Himalayas are getting better. See, manifesting works. The sunset from the garden area was simply spectacular - actually my most favorite in the whole compound.

During breakfast, i finally saw familiar faces. It’s so nice catching up, and telling them how amazing Nepal is that i had to come back and how fast time flies from 2014 to 2025. They’re so fascinated that i visited again and spent a night again in Dhulikel. The photo i took of us before was such a conversation starter. They begged me to send it to them so they can share with many of their friends. I have a strong feeling, i will be back in Dhulikel. I’ll revisit this travel notes again. But i would like to stay longer, and use Dhulikel as my base. 

In one of my many conversations with a random shop seller, he told me how travelers have changed nowadays. More people now have less commitment to actually stay in one place and immerse in local culture. They just come and go, and visit as many places as they can. Although guidebooks are essential tool, one still needs to research and caution themselves. A lot can happen on the road. Sometimes, the best destinations aren’t the ones that are worth remembering. True that. 

I wanted to visit the old town of Dhulikel again, but there are some more places that i haven’t been to in my itinerary. I needed to get going. I was chatting with the manager about life in Nepal and the Philippines. I whatsapped our photos from then and now, and how amazing it is to be back. I actually came back to Dhulikel. Not a lot of people can claim that. It was like a homecoming of some sort. 

When i was drafting my itinerary, Dhulikel initially wasn’t on the list. I wanted to stay longer in Kathmandu and just do day trips towards the eastern valley and the rim from there. I did this before and found it very convenient. But winter in the mountains is an experience that’ll be worth my while. 

Climate change has directly affected Nepal. Gone are days of January winter In Nepal where you need have layers upon layers of clothing. Now, i was actually comfortable with shortsleeved shirts during daytime. The sun was scorching, and 20 degrees during Winter is unheard of. And then it plummets late afternoon and becomes single digit at night.

Dhulikel during sunrise was bitterly cold. And for the first time during the trip, i had to cover my whole face. I had to use heat pack to keep my hands warm amidst my three layer clothing. All is good in the mountains of Nepal.


Travel Notes from Nagarkot, Nepal

I’ve been coming to Nepal more often than any usual tourist. Simply because there’s a lot more reason to visit this amazing country than Everest or as locals call - Sagarthama. There’s just too many regions, and places and locals, and always so little time. Yes, so little time. I spent almost 3 months in Nepal before but still there were so many places i have missed and decided will come for a visit next time. For a country not too big in size and a population not too many compared to the Philippines, Nepal is just jam-packed with many exciting adventures. You may have to draft your itinerary countless number of times before your trip because another place pops up and you want to visit it too.

Surprisingly, this very popular place called Nagarkot has escaped my to visit list before. I’ve read reviews how touristy the place is, and how the crowd can sometimes alter your peace during sunrise. But still, one may never know until you’ve personally been there. 

From Sankhu, it must have taken us forever. Forever doesn’t mean how long the trip took us but how we endured never ending sharp curves with killer cliffs. No pun intended. The driver and I cruised high altitude roads towards the town of Nagarkot. Obviously, the highway is called Nagarkot, too. Can you believe some travelers navigate the highway at night? They leave Kathmandu around 5 in the morning and reach Nagarkot after an hour just in time for sunrise and the start of the trek. Nagarkot is a very popular trekking destination, and sunrises and sunsets are one of the best ways to enjoy the place. You have sweeping views of the Himalayas from cool vantage points within Nagarkot. 

My driver was actually calm and very precise considering some parts of the Nagarkot Highway needs repair (as many Nepali Roads are), and the unmanned cliffs are a bit terrifying, to be honest. From Sankhu, we bypassed the main highway passing through a Hindu Temple called ??? True enough, most people who go to Nagarkot hire their own car and so a bus stop is simply a bus stop. To get from the bus stop to your hotel, you need to walk. It would be best to plan this ahead of time as you don’t want to navigate Nagarkot and its dusty highway on foot, day time or worse, at night.

Hotel Country Villa is just how i imagined it to be. With its unassuming entry, the experience begins as you enter and what view would be waiting for you. The hotel is pretty well-maintained. Perhaps one of the many reasons this hotel is very popular with foreign tourists and locals alike. The staff are professional, and so checking in and out was a breeze. I arrived on a Wednesday, and yet it’s not entirely devoid of crowd. People eat breakfast early, and leave right away. I don’t understand. Nagarkot is really very popular, and for one good reason - the view from high up the mountains. That is if you’re lucky. I am about 20% lucky because the peaks show up for a bit, but mostly it’s all clouds. 

After checkin in, i found time to nest and just prepare myself for mountain weather. I ordered another small pot of Masala in one of the many resting places in the hotel, and off i go just doing absolutely nothing. Well, sitting and relaxing. I thought i would be able to catch up on my reading, but i was wrong. I couldn’t take my eyes away from the view. I hoped for a better picture at sunset or sunrise. But like i always do from hereon, accept that things happen for a reason. I may not see the Himalayas clearly now, but soon i will be. I am manifesting.

I ordered Chicken sizzler with rice and it was just okay. Probably not the best Chicken dish i’ve had in Nepal. It seems Chicken is quite popular as even basic menus usually have it. It didn’t take long for me to finish the meal. I was stuffed. Later on, i enjoyed the rest of the sunset view from my balcony. Every now and then, i would go outside the and people watch see what’s happening. And then i would go back to reading my Lonely Planet Nepal guidebook again from my comfortable bed. I actually paid quite a premium for this accommodation, and it didn’t dissapoint. It’s also surprising that the room was warm. I don’t know if it’s because of its cabin feel with teak wooden floor and ceiling but it does its job to control the temperature. I actually had to take off my lounge socks because it was getting warm already. My suite in Kathmandu was colder but it’s because the room’s interior design is classic Newari.

Sadly, i barely slept and up until now i have no idea why. It must have been the elevation or too much Masala Tea, perhaps? In no time, i woke up to an alarm on my phone at 5AM, and sunrise doesn’t happen until 45 Minutes later. As early as that time, staff at the hotel are already setting up the place for breakfast buffet which starts at 6:30AM. It’s so cold outside yet they have to power through early morning because it’s work. They need to earn to survive.

I now need to talk about the working conditions of many NepalIs. I reckon those who work in the hospitality business as managers and even staff have it better compared to taxi drivers or construction workers who start work as early as 6AM and come back home at 10PM. It made me think how lucky i am staying at a “monggo” place, that’s expensive in Nepali, with a room so big an actually family can fit on it.

10 years ago, i didn’t have this realization. I was just exploring. Now, reality is more glaring than ever. Perhaps, i am starting to fully embrace the Nepali culture and traditions, and realizations like these would soon happen. It seems me being able to come back to Nepal three times already says so much about the privilege i have. The only thing i can offer to my Nepali brothers is a few minutes of amazement when i meet them. That i look Nepali but i am not. That i’m able to speak a phrase or two and my accent is perfect yet i am not. People are just so amazed. One person even told me maybe in my past life i was born Nepali, or that my mother or father was Nepali. 

Anyway, the mountains appeared for a bit around noon when everybody left already. Don’t believe guidebooks when they say that the best time to view the Himalayas is early morning or late afternoon. It changes. You’ll never know. If you stay longer, you’ll reap what you saw. 

I was glad to be able to visit Nagarkot and experience it for myself. Will i go back again? Probably not. Nepal is just too blessed. There’s countless number of view points around. Just do your research. Find one that you like, and treasure it. 

By the way, getting In Drive from Nagarkot to anywhere within the Kathmandu Valley is not easy but it’s possible. I had to offer a much higher rate when i booked for a driver just because i am time dependent. I don’t want to lose sunlight while on the road and not get the full potential of the mountains. Little did i know, i was in for a treat to a place i’ve visited 11 years ago. I will be staying in the very same resort. I just hope to see familiar faces. Dhanyabad! 


Travel Notes from Sankhu, Nepal


Back in the days, there was no In Drive to book a driver. You just hail a taxi cab in one of the many busy streets of Thamel and pray that you get a nice driver. Well, everyone’s nice here in Nepal. Never had a problem. Now, going from point A to B has become painless. Last time, i was going over my draft itinerary trying to figure out where i will go today. I am sleeping overnight in the mountains outside of Kathmandu, and Sankhu is on the way. I might as well pay a visit. 


I’ve been reading my past blog entries and Sankhu has been mentioned countless number of times. It’s one of the most highly recommended places to go to in the Kathmandu Valley, and yet i haven’t been there. What the heck. Reading my travel notes, i reckon it’s either i missed the bus going there or i am losing sunlight to go back to Kathmandu that’s why i always forego the trip there. This time around, i surely made time.


Raj Baruwal was my driver for the day. He will take me to Sankhu first. If the taxi cab i rode before was bad, today was worse. The white Maruti Suzuki i rode today should retire. It’s that bad. My driver didn’t speak any English, but was very polite, timid and shy. He’s quite aggressive as a driver, and very eager to tour me around. I was actually surprised later on because i thought he would just drive - not realizing he’s willing to guide me all day.


The route took me to Boudhanath Road again, where it’s traffic and polluted. But once you’ve passed by the area, the trip becomes faster and the mountain ranges appear from the horizon. You’ll feel as if everything’s already moving fast. I am still trying to study the route the driver took to Sankhu because all in all, it took us about an hour to reach the place. We surely were in for a treat. 


There must be a festival of some sort because throngs upon throngs of people come and go to the Vajra Yogini Temple. Later on, i found out that it’s the Madhav Narayan Festival. The driver told me he would come with me which again is a nice gesture. With too many people going in, this chap helped me in the maze going to the temple. I took about a thousand photos because festivals in Nepal are a different league. If you can, time your visit during one. You won’t be disappointed. Later on, i realized that all throughout this particular trip, there’s always a festival wherever i am going.


Even for a non-Hindu, this visit has become a meaningful, albeit unforgettable. Coming from the Philippines, and even for Asia, a Hindu festival is always mind blowing. One thing i enjoyed during the trip was observing life as it happens. Walk around, look around. There were many people bathing in the holy river, lighting butter candles, worshipping the Hindu gods, asking for blessings from Sadhus. The infinite sound of drums and bells, the chatters and clapping still ring in my ear as i type this. 


As i look back, it must be the right timing for me to visit Sankhu. Reading about it the other night, i thought it’s a sleepy and quiet town. Well, after today, it was the exact opposite. Today reminds me of Diwali which i was lucky to experience in Varanasi in India back in 2011, only today was daytime. I realized there are really so many Hindu festivals, and the interest is growing on me. More festivals to visit soon, perhaps. 


Upon further research, i discovered that in India celebrating the same festival, and about 30 people died during a stampede. Truly a heartbreaking news. At Sankhu, heaps of people gathered and for a bit, i got worried that there might be too many people around. But once you see the police manning the place, it’ll keep you calm.


Back to Raj Baruwal who takes the worse photos. Sorry dude! But when i take his photos, it’s always perfect. Now that i think about it, maybe it’s a sign for me to stop taking selfies or asking some to take my photos. Instead, i should just take photos of places and people. This has more meaning. You don’t always have to be the center of attention of your world. It’s not always about you. You see, you get lessons from anywhere and everywhere, if you only look with eyes wide open.


He made a sign, holding his pinky finger which means he wants to go to the toilet. I never heard of that. Earlier, he didn’t even drink water when i offered to buy him one. Today, i am in a limbo. I don’t know which made a more lasting impression to me — Sankhu and the Madhav Narayan Festival or my driver / guide - Raj Baruwal.


In In Drive, you can check how many kilometers the ride was, and it’s 103.5 Kilometers in total. Wow! It seems paying 4,785 Nepalese Rupees for the ride to Sankhu and my final destination for the day was such a bargain.


Travel Notes from Kathmandu Durbar Square, Nepal

It must have been my 10th time visiting the durbar square and yet it always feels so magical, so out of this world. It seems like there is an invisible energy that draws you in. You feel amazed and blessed at the same time. You know what’s even more recommended, you come at night when there’s no more tourists. Locals go to have puja stops, merchants waiting for a bit to close shop and lovers chatting in the cold January weather in the steps of the temples. What a vibe! Next time you visit the Durbar Square, do so at night and you’ll be rewarded with an experience like no other. For example, the Kal Bhairav is flocked by Hindus worshipping and you get to really see up close and personal how one Hindu worships and go on with their lives after a prayer. Be discreet, and they won’t mind you.


I’ve seen vloggers (you call them now as i am still a blogger) and do their first impression of Nepal and they immediately go to Kathmandu Durbar Square, and yet they don’t get to fully immerse themselves because they have many stops to go for the day. The beauty of Nepal is you have to visit the place in different times of the day, and in different days. I went on a Tuesday night and yet it feels like the weekend or a holiday.  I cannot say the same thing for the day but i will in a few days. Let’s see. I have been to the three durbar squares before and Patan has always been my favorite, followed by Kathmandu and sadly, i have to put Bhaktapur the last. I find it too chaotic for me, and there’s very little light at night which makes the trip there not as comfortable or secure as i hope it would be. Although one rooftop restaurant there serves the best chicken fried rice ever. I will edit this with the name. 


I was actually thinking where else to go after Boudhanath. It was either Pashupatinath or Kathmandu Durbar Square. I chose the latter because i want to visit the cremation ghats on another day, sunrise or sunset perhaps. 


I am eating my breakfast now at the courtyard of Swarga Heritage Hotel and i could’t finish anymore my French Toast with my small pot Masala Tea. 


I also love that i am writing everything here on Blogger so i won’t forget my successes and mishaps on the road. Imagine, i started blogging again because of Nepal after 10 years. And i want to continue doing so. All for the love of Nepal! 


Next stop, another place i haven’t been to before. I hope everything pans out great because transportation seems to be a problem for me, or lack thereof.


Travel Notes from Bhoudanath


I feel there are very few places in the world like Boudha that can move you spiritually without you even knowing it. To be honest, i am a bit lost for words until now that’s why it’s taking longer for me to write my travel notes about this place. I’ve been to Boudhanath maybe 5 times, and everytime i’m there i can’t help but realize that it’s a such a dreamland to keep still and be quiet — focusing on Zen Buddhism, and just let go of everything that promotes stress. You go there to free your mind from anything. You’re like dying to be born again. You don’t think of anything else. When people ask me what’s the number one place to visit within the Kathmandu Valley — it’s Bhouda. It’s Bhouda! 

Last time i went to Bhouda, i actually stayed overnight at Comfort Guesthouse so i can watch the stupa from dusk till dawn. It’s one of the highlights of my three month expedition to Nepal back in 2015. This time around, i may not have the same luxury of time but what i do have now is a much more calm mind and purposeful drive. You see, what’s particularly nice about Bhoudanath is that any religion is welcome here. And as a Christian “trying” to practice Buddhism, i feel a surge of energy, like Lord Buddha guiding me as his son. As i move clockwise around the stupa, and focusing on my intent as i say the mantra while spinning the wheels (which i discovered before to have actual scriptures written on it).

Buddhism is a very interesting religion because it’s very simple to follow. So simple that my favorite thing to say is that my religion is very simple. My religion is kindness. You don’t need to complicate things in order to be a good person. Whatever you do comes back to you ten-fold.

I went up the stairs that lead up to the Himalayan View Restaurant and started reading my book. All this while i was eye to eye with the Bhouda. It didn’t take long for my chicken fried rice to arrive, and me to finish it in less than 10 minutes. The staring contest was truly unforgettable. If you’re reading this, the views from this restaurant and the outdoor seating are the best. Price is very cheap considering you have premium seats. Go there.

I continued on walking clockwise while i was praying. This happened maybe 3 more times before my feet start to hurt. During my last interval, i went inside the corners of the stupa and found myself passing by Buddhist pilgrims praying. Without a doubt, sunset is the best time to visit Boudhanath. While everyone is rushing going here at noon as part of the UNESCO heritage sites tour, one misses this epic moment — when the energy from day to night is full on and the chants become louder, worshippers more tantric. It’s an out of this world experience. I have a 49 second video with me for keeps. Whenever i feel like my life is on a limbo, i’ll just watch it and keep calm. Then, i know how to move forward. 


Travel Notes from Budhanilkantha in Bagmati, Kathmandu, Nepal


I can’t believe i haven’t been here. What was i thinking? The day started late as usual, but also because i kinda planned it to be that way. I didn’t have to leave too early because i only need to be in Boudhanath before dusk so i have plenty of time. This trip is slow travel to the core.

I’ve been to many places outside Kathmandu but i haven’t been to Budhanilkantha. It seems this trip is all about visiting places i haven’t been to before. I read in my horoscope before to finally get out of my shell and start discovering new places again. I baby myself to go to the same places that are in my comfort zone. I didn’t plan it this way but i feel like ticking off the list of every Nepali tourist place there is. And thankfully, i’ve been blessed to have been to a lot of places. If you get to read this, feel free to browse through my travel notes section of Nepal. There’s a lot. And because i am simply staying in and around Kathmandu, i have plenty of time to soak in the senses and just relax in every place i go to.

This place reminds me so much of Dakshinkali, 22KM from Kathmandu, and it’s infamous Hindi God Kali sleeping in a reclining position in a water shed. As always, non-Hindu and non-Buddhists aren’t allowed to go inside and see Lord Mahavishnu, as they should be out of respect. People are taking off their shoes, worshipping and praying, coming out of the place blessed. I sat down in one of the benches trying to remember every butter candle, every lotus, the kids studying to be monks, and occasional besties chatting and taking photos. There was not a single tourist in sight in this place. I reckon everyone’s in Pokhara now.

I realized how it would really be nice to be able to speak actual Nepali and have a long conversation, and not the usual Jerik Gurung. If i really want to formalize the once a year visit to Nepal in January, then i have to widen my vocabulary. I get a couple of stares because i look like everyone else but i take photos like a tourist, and i sound so different. Also, i wasn’t able to go inside the sleeping Hindu God Mahavishnu water tank. Later on, i discovered that it’s actually the largest stone carving in Nepal at 5 meters.

I don’t know if there’s a ticket to get inside Budhanilkantha, but i wasn’t asked. Later on, even in Boudhanath and Kathmandu Durbar Square. This has always been status quo. And Nepal understands. I hope so.

The ride going there was bad as expected but what made it a whole lot worse is the fact that it has become more dusty times ten. With no air condition on, i still had to close the windows because the air has become too dusty. Pollution has become a lingering problem eversince i arrived. And yet, Bangkok has worse pollution. And i’m going there after Kathmandu.

I want to know what Nepal is doing to eradicate this huge of a problem. Pollution is really Nepal’s biggest problem. And 10 years have passed, and it has become worse. How about 10 years from now? In Sagarmatha, we trust. 


Travel Notes from Kopan Monastery in Kathmandu, Nepal

What a terrible waste of time, energy and Nepalese Rupees today is. I’ve been reading my Lonely Planet Nepal travel guide, and on the edge of Shivapuri National Park is the now popular Kopan Monastery. Looks interesting plus i haven’t been here. There are only a handful of tourist places now in the Kathmandu Valley that i haven’t visited, and Kopan is one of them. As part of my rented car from Budanalikantha, me and my driver Yogi Gautam mazed our way to Kopan. The ride was long and zig zag going up, snaking our way to one of the worst road condition i have ever experienced in my lifetime. It didn’t help that we’re riding a beat up, worn down White Tata Express. Terrible! As soon as i arrived at the gate, the security officer asked if i had a booking. Of course, not. What the hell?! Who books for a tourist spot ahead of time to take photos and visit the exterior of the place? This is a first. The driver talked to him, begging for us to just come in for a few minutes to take photos and maybe walk around for a bit. Mind you, the ride going there wasn’t short. And in its maze like path, you become dizzy. Sadly, he said no. And he left us - bored and nonchalant. Like nothing and without any consideration. I was shooed away from a Buddhist Monastery - the irony of it all. I think, this is the first time i experienced something like this in Nepal. Why the heck would Lonely Planet put Kopan Monastery in their guidebook and not put a reminder to book before going there. I get that maybe they’re quite strict with the visitors, but hey i don’t even have to go inside. I just need to make sure that i didn’t go all the way there for nothing. A photo or two wouldn’t hurt. I left the place, confused but as in my previous blog — reminder to always have a back up plan. Things don’t always go how we envisioned them to be. That is a way of life.

The driver must have felt my disappointment. But i wasn’t taking it too seriously - just calm and collected and ready to move on. In true Jerik fashion, i just kept quiet like i always do. Meanwhile, my driver kept on stopping by every temple he sees so i could take photos. It’s not his fault really but i can sense the Nepali pride in him. He would do his best to make up for the disappointing Kopan Monastery. This kind gesture is very much appreciated and one of the reasons why Nepali people are very close to my heart.

I just started reading a book called Simple Living by Shunmyo Masuno and its 100 daily practices for Zen Buddhism. I am pretty sure this debacle is one of them.

I’ve arranged 2,000 Nepalese Rupees earlier via in Drive to take me to 3 places with waiting time im between — Budhanalikantha, Kopan Monastery & Boudhanath. I’ve researched the route and which place to go first. This is the best route possible one can take yet only to be disappointed with Kopan Monastery. 

On my way to Boudhanath, we stopped at this view point, one where no guidebook has ever written before, where one could see the whole Kathmandu City from a great vantage point. I took photos of the driver, and he took mine. In true Nepali fashion, mine wasn’t so good. I laughed it all out. Because today I realized - sometimes it’s not even the photos that matter. One can have the best photo with no meaning. I, on the other hand, had a not so good photo but with memories of failed Kopan Monastery. A selfie with Yogi Gautam would suffice. All is good in this 8 degrees weather as i type my experiences yesterday. 


Travel Notes from Kathmandu, Nepal 2025 Part 2

On my first day here in Nepal, i took things slow. Walking around the same path as before was simply magical. You really have to be here to experience it. I am pertaining to the the lingering smell of incense, masala being cooked and just the musky afternoons  (minus the pollution) were all spectacular, and stellar to me.

I chanced upon this shop Root Nepal Handicraft and looked around for incense sticks. I have been big on it since late last year. I light up mornings and afternoon. And i fancy buying here in Nepal would be a good idea. It’s called a Zodiac Incense and it only costed me 300 rupees for 16 sticks that’ll burn for 45 minutes each. I actually didn’t bother to check if that’s the right price, because in itself it’s already a very cheap price. 

I also checked out other shops in the main shopping area until i got hungry. Initially, i was looking for fried rices but weirdly couldn’t find one. I checked the menu at this fancy place called Third Eye and ordered stuffed chicken breast with mashed potatoes and vegetables - it’s actually quite good although not very Nepali. The ambiance is also nice with a little fireplace in the courtyard to keep diners alfresco some warmth. The staff are pretty good to, and all weirded out by this Nepali looking dude who’s no Nepali. Ha ha I also ordered a small pot of masala tea which i drank to the last drop. Never a day, without a small pot or two. Because the tea is usually served without sugar, you fix your own. I’ve prepared for this before arriving and bought with me zero sugar stevia. 

And since i wanted more incense sticks, the walk lead me back to the same shop. This time, i bought Heart Chakra Incense for 150 rupees and an Ohm incense stick holder. 

There are so many more shops that i should check out but Kathmandu and the Thamel area dies down after dinner so i have to reschedule. Surprisingly for a polarizing city, Kathmandu is very solemn at night. I headed back to the room which is called a Queen Heritage Suite Room 107, and unpacked and nested. At 12MN, i was dozing off already. Here in Nepal, i sleep early and wake up early - the kind of habit i want to continue.